Moroi Hideki, 48
Traditional Foods Factory Owner
Basically, what is the meaning of “Slow Food?”
Slow Food supports traditional foods in various regions, and teaches about the ethics of food. We strive to popularize traditional foods For example, in Akita prefecture, in the past there was a type of fish-based shoyu (soy sauce) called shotsuru. It used hata-hata. However, fish stocks were declining so the prefecture started a program to replenish stocks, prohibiting fishing for three years. After three years hata hata made a comeback. Slow Food Akita sponsored a meeting about this. From that time manufacturers switched to using hata hata. During the ban on fishing, prices went up of course. The way I make shotsuru is the way it was made in old times. So the Slow Food movement picked up the cause of shotsuru in Akita.Now Slow Food in Akita focuses on the hata-hata issue?
No, not just that issue. It includes many other issues. Shoyu and miso are traditional Japanese foods. Slow Food promotes any traditional foods.So what does the “slow” mean?
It’s the opposite of “fast.” It’s a response, a protest, against fast food such as McDonald’s. It’s concerned with preserving food cultures. Slow Food started in Italy, I believe, as a protest against McDonald’s to preserve traditional Italian foods.What about the way of eating?
Just in regard to regions. For example, with shotsuru, the aroma and taste are valued differently by region, and the way of using it is different.But the speed of eating, does that matter?
It has nothing to do with that. For example, wine is the heart of Italian cuisine, and anchovies, and cheese. These foods are challenged by an influx of foreign foods. Slow Food supports the preservation of traditional foods. It’s the same for additives. With fast food, ingredients and additives are thoughtlessly thrown together. Nobody knows what’s in it. With slow food local people themselves produce it, so we know the source. We can consider lifestyles, and the environment, and preserve them.Besides shotsuru, what are Akita products?
Various pickles and vegetables. There are various ways of producing sake for example. There are large manufacturers, small manufacturers. Some work hard producing it. Slow Food movement can’t really take off in Tokyo. The SLOW FOOD movement has more meaning in rural areas like Akita and Hokkaido. Part of the movement is encouraging local people to eat local foods. In Italy the movement has a feeling of communism. It’s a reaction against American influences. It’s a reaction against GMOs (genetically modified organisms). They fight for the rights of seed producers in South Africa, for example. American corporations are trying to take over seed supplies. The SLOW FOOD movement fights against that. GMOs and international corporations which are destroying local food production and manufacturing. Corporations try to set up in countries with no environmental laws. We support local producers that are concerned about health and the environment. Japan tends to copy the west, so they are adopting the same methods and technologies. Japan is heavily involved in GMOs. We point out the ethical issues involved.What exactly do you do?
I produce miso, shoyu, and pickles. I’m not an academic or a teacher. It’s just that I’ve developed a position in regard to food culture and its effect on the environment.Like organic foods.
Yes. Organic foods are good.From when have you done this job?
From 80 years ago. This is third generation. This shossuru, we didn’t produce before. We started using hata hata 12 or 13 years ago and wanted to revive this traditional Akita shoyu taste. However, even Akita people had forgotten that taste! So it’s been necessary to explain to locals about the product, taste, and way of eating it. It’s alright to stay a small company. Just to preserve, and communicate about this product. This shossuru culture is only in Akita and Noto Peninsula. In Japan shoyu is made from wheat flour, and rice. It is generally not fish based. But Asian cuisines have entered Japan from Thailand, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Korea.Where do you sell?
Mostly in this area, Akita Prefecture, but also Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyushu, all over Japan.Where do you sell? Supermarkets? Health food stores?
We mostly fill orders. We also supply to health food stores. In a pyramid, we’re at the top, with fewer potential consumers because of the cost. We need to communicate the difference in quality that we offer.The price?
It’s expensive. And lesser amount.My thinking it’s worth it to pay more for quality food.
Such customers surely exist. For everyday goods consumers buy cheap. For food, people should look closely, and taste, then more consumers will comprehend the difference. Then we’ll find new customers.Is it a good job?
Yes, among jobs, this is the best.Why?
In Japan food is the heart of the culture. Foodstuffs are essential. Food is survival. It’s the most fundamental job. Certain foods give Japan its special flavor.Are there any bad points to your job?
The worst point is watching the industry, small food manufacturers, decline. There used to be 5,000 small producers; now there’s 2,000. From now it’ll decline more because of the control of big corporations. I would like to see handmade foods valued, and communicate that to customers. We lose in terms of price and amount. We’re not necessarily against large manufacturers. Citizens around the world need to express their will for quality food and preservation of food culture. If people don’t work for preservation, small manufacturers will become extinct. Production will be reduced to the pushing of machine buttons. Human labor will become obsolete. The environment will be destroyed. We can be sure of that. Jobs will disappear.Do have a dream for the future?
I want to leave a legacy of shotsuru in Akita.How much time off do you get in a week?
Sundays, and the 2nd and 4th Saturdays. That’s six days off a month.What about in a year?
Three days at New Year’s and obon (a summer holiday to remember ancestors).Do you travel at that time?
Yes. Last year… Well, we relax at New Year’s because there are many local events, and we take care of the shrine. In January there’s namahen gyoji (a local diety/demon festival) in Oga. I can’t really travel, but last year in October I did take a short personal trip to Italy, related to Slow Food. I plan to go again next year, also to the Philippines and Thailand, work related travel.You meet other Slow Food members?
I don’t have friends in those countries. I’d like to make friends. However, Slow Food members receive me as a friend. Next SLOW FOOD Italians are coming soon to Oga Peninsula, along with members from Yokohama We’re going to have a panel discussion about Slow Food—what is it? The theme is shotsuru. I arranged it. About 30 people will come, including Akita Prefectural University Professors. We’ll talk about initiating Slow Food activities. There’ll be manufacturers, tourists, and academics. Slow Food is also about tourism; it’s about human relationships as well as food. The government won’t provide any money to support this. If it’s fast food, large corporations, or IT (Information Technology), governments come up with huge amounts of money. But if the issue is supporting local communities, nothing.the end